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在香格里拉住了一晚,第二天起来后,心中还是对香格里拉之游有些失望。吃早餐时碰到了一位荷兰人,跟他闲聊起来,他说前两天刚去了梅里雪山,看到了主峰,非常漂亮,一下子激起了我们的兴趣。

其实,来云南前我们是计划好了要去梅里雪山的,但包车司机一再说,现在的天气看不到梅里雪山,去了会很失望的。事实的确如此,雨季云多雾重,天气稍有不好,就无法看到梅里雪山,再说高原天气变化无常,看到梅里雪山的机会确实不多。况且,从香格里拉去梅里雪山有200多公里的路,路况又不比去泸沽湖好,所以司机打消了我们去梅里雪山的念头。听了荷兰人的一席话,重新又燃起了我们去梅里雪山的欲望,只用了1分钟,就作出决定,并将决定告诉司机:不管怎么样,我们要冒这次险,赌一次,反正去了看不到是失望,不去更遗憾,决不后悔。

一路上,随着我们的车在山上盘旋攀高,我们的海拔位置也越来越高,而风景也变得越来越美丽,老天似乎通人情,天空也变得越来越晴朗。在海拔4000米以上看到的景色,与4000米以下的完全不同。4000米以下,看到的是山高云也高,4000米以上,看到的却是山高云低。顺着盘山公路往前看,看到路拐弯处,会有种错觉,好象公路一直连到了天上,我们的车好象要直奔天堂一样,感觉非常的奇妙。我跟司机开玩笑地说,即使看不到梅里雪山,就看看这一路景色也足也!

车行4小时半后,我们到达了飞来寺,飞来寺因相传过去曾有一座释迦牟尼像从西藏飞来而得名,位于德钦县山门口不远的路边,正对着一字排开的梅里雪山。飞来寺边上,就是专供人们烧香敬献神山的香炉和经幡林。据说每一个要去梅里雪山的人都要这么做。

我们也不能免俗,每人买了一套祭品——香一把,五谷一小袋,松枝一束,经幡一卷。将松枝放进香炉燃烧,再以此火点燃香,将香插在香炉附近的玛尼堆上,将五谷抛洒在香炉周围,再将经幡系到经幡林子上。这一切,都要对着神山做。又进寺内顶礼膜拜,点上酥油灯,心里默默想的是能和卡瓦格博谋上一面。

车重新在滇藏公路(204国道)上开了起来,忽见对面山峦处一挂晶莹透明略带蓝色的白色物体从云端奔泻下来,明永冰川!我们一边惊呼,一边目不转睛地盯着眼前的冰川,从云雾开散处奔至山脚下的巨大冰川雪线具有震撼人心的美丽!汽车顺着山势盘旋而下,我们间息着看到的明永冰川越变越大。这似银鳞玉甲的玉龙的冰川,从海拔5500米往下绵延至2700米的森林地带,离澜沧江面仅800多米,绵延11公里,平均宽度达到了500米,是世界上罕有的低纬度、高海拔季风海洋性的现代冰川。

车子又开了一个多小时,到达了明永村,骑上骡子,经过二个小时的翻山越岭,明永冰川的冰舌——冰川的尽头,就展现在了我们的眼前。再向上爬行,山路越发陡峭起来,冰川的山崖边建起了钢梁木板栈道,我们下骡后开始沿木板栈道往上爬。此刻,姿态奔腾看似静止的明永冰川就在我们悬空的脚下10多米的地方。这条我国纬度最低、冰舌下延最低的现代冰川,正在以每年530米的运动速度向下运动!若是以分钟计算,真不敢相信这庞大的“玉龙”正以每分钟0.1008371厘米的速度在悄然流动!由于一路舔过大地,原本淡蓝色的冰舌上已沾满了黑黑的灰土。

继续沿木板栈道上攀,终于来到了梅里雪山的观景台。此时的梅里雪山正露出一小半身子,山峰叠峦,白雪皑皑,冰峰接踪,气势非凡。这便是闻名遐迩的以卡瓦格博峰为中心的梅里雪山。而主峰卡瓦格博正藏在厚厚的云层里,但已让我们看得如痴如醉。梅里雪山是藏民心中的神山,太子十三峰一字排开,最高的主峰卡瓦格博峰,海拔6740米,是云南第一高峰,迄今仍无人登顶。由于垂直气候明显,梅里雪山的气候变幻无常,雪雨阴晴全在瞬息之间。我们静静地欣赏着眼前的神山,静静地等着主峰卡瓦格博能有瞬间现身。直到下午6点30分,看着卡瓦格博实在不愿与我们相见,我们才泱泱地骑骡下了山。8点钟到了山下后,赶快坐上车往飞来寺赶,希望在飞来寺再看一眼梅里雪山。

车在飞快地往下开,我们的头不由自主地一次次向梅里雪山张望,心里在默默地祈祷,期盼他能眷顾一下我们此刻的心情。此时正值太阳下山,满天的红霞煞是好看!忽然,一个白色的山峰在天际显现,卡瓦格博!兴奋,激动,甚至幸福,交织在一起。我们立即停车下来,不浪费一秒种,每人都和卡瓦格博合了影。仅仅过了3分钟,卡瓦格博就隐去了身影,但我们已经很满足了。此时,我想到了“大难不死必有后福”这句话,有道理!

在飞来寺梅里山庄住了一晚,第二天一早6点便起床,希望能在日出时,再一次与梅里雪山相见,看看他的“金顶”。早上很冷,云层也较厚,太子十三峰犹如一位位倚天拔剑的斗士,孤傲中透出冷峻。从飞来寺望去,绵亘在云雾中的梅里雪山美得令人心碎。一个多小时后,天渐渐亮了,已超过了欣赏“金顶”的最佳时机,就在我们失望之际,突然云层中一个银色的小尖峰露了出来,银光熠熠,雪白晶亮!啊,是“银顶”卡瓦格博!时隔10小时,我们又见面了!又是短短的3分钟,卡瓦格博害羞地离去了。虽然没见到“金顶”,但见到了“银顶”也已十分的幸运和知足了。这三分钟的幸福感,也许我三年都无法忘怀。

接着,雾越来越重,不一会儿,就什么都看不见了。下山的路都是雾,能见度只有5米,司机艰难地开着车,我们也紧张得要命,好在司机技术老道又小心,终于又是有惊无险!回来后,我常常感觉过去的几天仿佛在梦里一样,当我用真实的笔来记录它时,总无法那么清晰地留住梦境,但我还是想把它写下来,因为我的思绪在汩汩流淌。

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